Most of us choose pearls the way we'd choose a painting: we go for whatever catches our eye. But the pearls that look beautiful in a jeweller's case aren't always the ones that look beautiful on you. The real skill is matching the pearl to the person, and that comes down to four things.
"When it comes to choosing pearls, there are four main criteria," says Chrissie Douglas, who has spent more than 30 years matching clients to their pearls. "The colour of the pearl, depending on whether you want to go classic, soft or edgy. Your skin tone, which decides the best overtone for you. The shape of the pearls and the shape of your face. And the lustre, which gives you a glow."
Colour: classic, soft or edgy
Start with the mood you want. "White is the most classic, and it's really a building block," says Chrissie. "If you don't have white pearls, that's a good starting point."
If you already own a white strand, the next step is colour. Soft shades like pink, grey and peach are gentle and easy to wear every day. For something bolder, Chrissie points to peacock black: Tahitian pearls that shimmer anywhere between green, purple and pink. White pearls with a smoky grey overtone give a similarly edgy look. "It can be worn at any age," she says. "It simply makes a stronger impact on the eye of the beholder."
Skin tone: finding your overtone
Every pearl has a body colour and an overtone, the faint wash of colour that seems to float over its surface. The overtone, more than the body colour, decides whether a pearl flatters your complexion.
"If you tan well, you'll look great in a white pearl with a peach, gold or cream overtone," says Chrissie. "If you go pink in the sun, or even beetroot, choose a cooler white, with a blue-green or frosty pink overtone."
The same rule works for every colour. Warm-toned skin suits warmer black, pink and grey pearls, while cool-toned skin comes alive with blues and greens. A pink pearl with a green or blue overtone, for instance, is a lovely choice if you burn rather than bronze.
Related:Pearl Colours: Which is Best for My Skin Tone?
Shape: framing your face
Pearls sit close to the face, so their shape and length change how your features look. "If you have a very round face, go for long pearls, because they add length," says Chrissie. "If you have a long face, go for rounder pearls to frame it better."
This applies to necklaces, earrings and pendants alike. A long rope or a drop earring draws the eye downwards, while a shorter strand or a round stud adds softness and width.
Read more:How to Choose the Right Pearl Earrings for Your Face Shape
Lustre: the instant, painless facelift
Of all four, Chrissie emphasises that lustre matters most. Lustre is how light bounces off and through the layers of nacre. The finest pearls have a surface so bright it's almost like a mirror, and lustre is also the clearest sign of quality.
It's also one of the surest ways to tell a real pearl from an imitation. A real pearl has a deep glow that seems to sit just beneath the surface, while a fake tends to have a flat shine. If you're unsure about a strand you already own, ourpearl authenticity checker walks you through lustre and five other checks you can do at home.
"Lustre helps you glow," says Chrissie. "It lets the eye of the beholder see you with a real, natural, gentle glow, and it makes you look much better. It is, in fact, the instant and painless facelift."
To keep that glow, wear your pearls often. Contact with your skin helps them hold their lustre, and they're best stored in silk or chamois rather than plastic.
Bringing it together
The right pearl isn't simply the colour you love or the price you pay. It's the one that suits your complexion, flatters your face and reflects the light in a way that lights you up.
If you'd like help finding yours, Chrissie offers personal consultations. Send a photograph ahead of your appointment and she'll put together a selection chosen for you.
