Diamonds haven't always been the expected choice for an engagement ring. For most of human history, any precious stone was fitting. And pearls were among the most prized of all.
"It's only very recently, in the last 50-plus years, that diamonds have been the normal engagement ring," explains Chrissie Douglas of Coleman Douglas Pearls. "Before that, it was any precious stone, including pearls."
Why pearls were the ultimate engagement gem
Until the 1920s, natural pearls were the rarest, most beautiful and most expensive gem known. More valuable than diamonds. More sought-after than rubies. A pearl engagement ring was simply the height of luxury.
Wear one today and you’re in remarkable company. Pearl rings have been treasured since Roman times, through the Byzantine era, the Tudors, the Medicis and the Belle Époque. As Chrissie puts it: "Any civilisation that has wanted to embellish themselves will have embellished themselves with pearls."
Which pearls work (and which to avoid)
The practical question matters. Not every pearl is equally suited to daily wear, and an engagement ring is worn every day.
"Natural pearls are layer upon layer upon layer of nacre," explains Chrissie. "So as they make you look beautiful, hopefully when you wear them you are careful with them. But if you do biff them about? Well, there is a layer underneath and a layer underneath and another layer underneath. There are thousands of layers in a natural pearl."
Whether they’re natural or cultured, freshwater pearls share this same all-nacre structure, making them equally robust and an excellent choice for everyday wear.
The pearl to avoid for an engagement ring is a cultured oyster pearl, such as an Akoya or South Sea. These are nucleated with a bead that makes up around 80% of the pearl's diameter. So, the nacre layer on top is comparatively thin. "If you biff it," says Chrissie, "you'll get to the bead a bit too soon. That won't lead to a whole life's worth of happy engagement ring wearing."
It doesn't have to be a ring
For those who can't or prefer not to wear a ring, a pearl necklace makes an equally meaningful engagement gift. It’s also one with its own long history.
"I have sold several pearl necklaces as engagement presents in my career," says Chrissie. "For those who really can't have a ring on their hand, it's a wonderful way to wear a necklace every day to remember their engagement and know that they are very much loved."
A pearl necklace chosen at this moment in a relationship carries special significance that a piece bought for no occasion simply doesn't.
Finding the right pearl
Whether you're drawn to a pearl engagement ring or a necklace, the choice of pearl matters enormously. The colour, the size, the shape can all be chosen to suit the person who will wear it every day for decades. That is precisely what Coleman Douglas Pearls' personal consultation is designed for.
To find the right pearl for an engagement gift, book a personal consultation with Chrissie at Coleman Douglas Pearls.