A pearl drop hangs between a gold cross and a spike. A safety-pin brooch is studded with Akoya pearls. This summer, Mikimoto and Chrome Hearts quietly released their second collaboration, and it's the clearest sign yet that the pearl has gone punk. Below, Chrissie Douglas explains how to wear pearls with a little more bite.
From Westwood to Chrome Hearts
The pairing still surprises. Chrome Hearts, the Los Angeles label known for gothic crosses and heavy silver, almost never uses pearls. Its co-founder Richard Stark has one rule: "If it's pearls, it has to be Mikimoto."
The first collection, launched in late 2024, set Akoya and South Sea pearls in white gold alongside cross pendants and safety-pin brooches. The new five-piece capsule moves into 22-carat yellow gold, and it's available only in extremely limited numbers.
The idea isn't new though. Vivienne Westwood brought punk and pearls together decades ago. Her orb first appeared as jewellery in 1987, and her orb pearl chokers are still widely worn.
Today's designers are pushing further. Melanie Georgacopoulos has slashed pearls and spliced them with gold for Tasaki, saying she wanted to give them "a punk feel". Sophie Bille Brahe's asymmetric ear styling, meanwhile, has made mismatched pearls look entirely deliberate.
Why pearls, why now
"For decades, pearls have been thought of as classic, soft and elegant, and they are," says Chrissie Douglas. "But they can also be full of character: edgy, strong, dramatic. They make an entrance."
She sees the shift as more than a passing trend. "Women now want to be seen for what they stand for," she says. "They don't want to melt into the crowd. They want to be seen for what they think and what their values are. That's what gives rise to the punk pearl."
Getting the edge right
Whether a pearl looks soft or striking often depends on the metal it's set in. One of the most effective routes to edge is oxidised silver. "Silver oxidises naturally over time, but you can oxidise it until it becomes black," Chrissie explains. "With white or grey pearls, that gives a really strong edge. It's a very impactful jewel." A warm-toned pearl with golden overtones, by contrast, gives a soft, feminine, almost demure look.
There's plenty of room between those two extremes. Rose pearls set in silver keep some gentleness but still have an edge. Grey pearls come into their own against etched, tarnished silver, which gives a piece a sculptural quality.
For full drama, Chrissie points to Tahitian pearls on leather made to look like barbed wire. "It's a juxtaposition of total opposites," she says. "Barbed wire is harsh and war-like. Yet in leather, it's soft, and with pearls the feel is completely contrasting."
Related:Leather & Pearl Jewellery
Pearls with attitude
This way of thinking has always been part of Coleman Douglas Pearls. Chrissie has spent more than 30 years pairing pearls with leather, silk, wood and semi-precious stones, and her colour-matching eye applies as much to metal and setting as it does to skin tone.
Choosing between blackened silver and warm gold is the same kind of decision as choosing between a cream pearl and a rose one. It comes down to the impression you want to make.
"Pearls can be very gentle, but they can also be absolutely full of attitude," says Chrissie. "So wear your pearls to show what you are."
If you'd like to find a pearl with a little more edge, book your personal consultation today.
