Yes, but only with a very soft cloth very gently and in a limited way. Lustre, the main beautifying quality of a pearl, depends on the play of light that goes through the tiny layers of nacre on each pearl. Pearls aren’t like hard gemstones where you can buff out scratches and make them “new” again. Their shine comes from multiple delicate outer layers of nacre. Once the layers are worn down, their lustre can’t be fully restored.
Essentially, polishing pearls should only be about cleaning and reviving lustre, not resurfacing them. Here’s what that means in practice…
What “polishing” pearls actually entails
For pearls, polishing usually refers to:
- Removing surface oils, dirt or product build-up
- Restoring their natural glow by gentle wiping
- Not grinding, buffing or using abrasive polish
If someone says they’ll “polish” pearls like they would gold or diamonds, that’s a red flag.
How to safely polish pearls at home
The safest method is covered in our guide to cleaning pearl earrings:
- Use a soft, lint-free cloth (microfibre or a clean cotton cloth).
- Lightly dampen the cloth with plain lukewarm water.
- Wipe each pearl gently. No scrubbing.
- Dry immediately with another soft cloth.
- Let them fully air dry before storing.
That’s it. Simple and safe.
If there’s stubborn grime, you can add a tiny drop of mild soap (like baby shampoo) to the damp cloth. Wipe gently and rinse the cloth, then wipe again with plain water and dry.
What not to use on pearls
Polishing pearls implies using something other than water. But it’s vital to note that the following will damage nacre:
- Chemical jewellery dips
- Vinegar/lemon or anything acidic
- Alcohol-based cleaners
- Toothpaste or baking soda (way too abrasive)
- Jewellery polishing cloths meant for metal (they’re mildly abrasive)
- Ultrasonic cleaners
- Steam cleaners
Even “gentle” silver polish can eat away a pearl’s surface over time. Stick to water as we’ve mentioned above.
Can a jeweller polish pearls properly?
A good jeweller can professionally clean pearls and sometimes improve appearance slightly. But they can’t magically recreate nacre you’ve lost. This is because polishing pearls in this way entails getting rid of the top layer of nacre, so it must be undertaken by someone who knows what they are doing. It really needs a pearl specialist to do this as most jewellers are not pearl specialists.
In certain cases, professional pearl specialists can do a light re-polish by very carefully removing a microscopic layer to even out dullness. This is specialist work and only suitable for pearls with thick nacre. Overdoing it risks permanently lowering their lustre and value.
How to keep pearls lustrous so you don’t need polishing
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Pearls stay nicest when they’re treated like a “soft gem”. Here are some simple tips:
- Last on, first off. That means putting pearls on after perfume, hairspray and makeup, then off before you shower or exercise
- Wipe after every wear
- Store separately from harder jewellery
- Avoid heat, chemicals and prolonged water exposure
- Wear them. Pearls like being next to your skin as your oils keep them moist. They can dry out if locked away for years
Read more: Taking Care of Pearls
Polishing pearls: the bottom line
You can only “polish” pearls in the sense of gentle cleaning and buffing with a soft cloth. Anything abrasive or chemical will damage their surface. If pearls are badly scratched or chalky, a jeweller may be able to help, but there are limits, because nacre can’t be replaced once it’s worn away.
At Coleman Douglas Pearls, we’re passionate about caring for pearls and helping every person find their perfect pieces. If you’d like personalised advice on your next purchase, book a one-to-one consultation with a pearl expert today.
