
Pearl diving has been a celebrated part of Scotland’s history since the Roman era. In fact, it’s hypothesised that Julius Caesar’s motivation for invading the British Isles in 55 BC came from his desire to seize the nation’s pearl production – a theory that emerged from the writings of Seutonius, Caesar’s biographer.
Once a thriving industry, pearl diving in Scotland declined in the 19th century because of overfishing. The country’s pearl-producing freshwater mussels remain critically endangered despite 1998 legislation making pearl fishing illegal. It indicates the dissolution of a once-celebrated Scottish industry and the wider cultural history of pearl diving in the country.
Below, we deep dive into the forgotten tradition of Scottish pearl diving.
A brief history of pearl diving in Scotland
The history of pearls in Scotland goes back centuries. Scottish King Alexander I – nicknamed The Fierce – was purported to possess a vast, cherished pearl collection.
By 1435, Pope Pius II was reported to name pearls among Scotland’s four main European exports following a visit to the country – alongside hides, wool and salted fish.
From the 16th to 19th centuries, the country was home to a roaring trade in freshwater pearls. This industry required the skill and expertise of pearl drivers, who honed their trade in Scottish waters.
However, in the 18th century, the health of Scottish freshwater pearl mussels was already in question. By the late 19th century, overfishing had resulted in the critical endangerment of Scotland’s population of freshwater pearl mussels. Legislation passed in 1998 made it illegal to fish for freshwater pearls in Scotland, and to buy or sell Scottish pearls. With that, the pearl diving industry was officially in decline.
Despite this legislation, poachers still try their luck, with slim chances – it’s estimated that around one in 5,000 freshwater pearl mussels produce a gem.
Sustainability and Scottish pearls
More threatening than illegal pearl hunters, however, is climate change. Scotland’s freshwater pearl mussels remain critically endangered, increasingly threatened by the rising temperatures of Scottish rivers and seas.
As a keystone species – an organism on which the health and resilience of an entire ecosystem relies – the status of freshwater pearl mussels as near-extinction is a sobering reflection on the state of Scottish biodiversity and environmental health.
Attempts to protect both the wildlife and mussels of waterways like the River Dee have led to tree-planting campaigns like the One Million Trees campaign along the Dee’s banks, and Scottish Natural Heritage’s initiative Pearls in Peril.
At Coleman Douglas Pearls, we ensure the sustainability of our pearls through three main practices. We work with pearl farmers who grow sustainably sourced pearls that support ecosystem regeneration and community economies – so you can wear your Coleman Douglas pearls with pride.
The Abernethy Pearl
In April 2023, the BBC published a report on one of Scotland’s last professional pearl fishers. William (Bill) Abernethy was famous among the country’s pearl divers – it was rumoured he could tell whether a freshwater mussel held a pearl just by looking at it. He was also renowned as the man who found Scotland’s largest freshwater pearl in living memory – the Abernethy pearl.
Affectionately known as ‘Little Willie’, the Abernethy pearl was discovered by Bill in 1967. Although Abernethy confirmed that the pearl originated from the city of Perth’s River Tay, he never disclosed the exact location of his discovery.
A freshwater river pearl weighing a total of 43.6 grams (11 carats), the Abernethy pearl came from a mussel belonging to the Margaretifera family. It is assumed to have been growing for over 80 years before its discovery by Abernethy.
Renowned for its highly spherical shape, radiant lustre, flawless surface and delicate pink-white overtones, the Abernethy pearl was celebrated as a remarkable gem of extraordinary quality.
In August of 2024, the Abernethy pearl sold for nearly £94,000 at auction, having been projected to fetch between £40,000 and £60,000. Bill initially offered the pearl to our company founder’s ancestor, A&J Smith Jewellers, before selling it with The Perth Jewellers.
The Kellie Pearl
The exact history of the Kellie pearl is difficult to determine. Some reports indicate its discovery in 1540, whilst others suggest it emerged from the Ythan River in 1621.
Regardless of its exact discovery, the Kellie pearl is now found in the Scottish Crown. The oldest Crown jewels in Britain, the headpiece combines with a sword of state and royal sceptre to comprise the Honours of Scotland. First used to crown the infant Mary Queen of Scots in 1543, the Honours were ‘lost’ for 100 years following the 1709 Treaty of Union with England, before their rediscovery in 1818.
The turbulence of the Honours of Scotland’s history reflects that of the country itself. The Crown, royal sceptre and sword of state are now housed in Edinburgh Castle.
Chrissie’s relationship to Scottish pearl diving
Scottish pearl diving is also present in the lineage of our company founder and lead designer – Chrissie. Her ancestor, Alfred Smith, was a pearl specialist and owner of A&J Smith Jewellers in Aberdeen. Smith spent hours fishing for freshwater pearls in Scottish waters, even with Bill Abernethy, and his love of pearls descended through the generations to Chrissie.
Now a leading authority on pearls in the UK, Chrissie brings over thirty years’ worth of experience to Coleman Douglas Pearls, producing hand-crafted designs made from responsibly sourced pearls and conflict-free gemstones.
Book a personal consultation with Coleman Douglas Pearls to find a pearl design that is expertly matched to your distinctive features. The right pearl will light up your face, enhancing your natural beauty – we’ll help you feel beautifully confident in perfectly matched pearls.
Create a pearl design that tells your story
During our bespoke pearl jewellery consultation, we’ll couple our expertise with your unique design to create a piece of pearl jewellery for you to cherish for years to come.
What’s more, we can even redesign inherited jewellery. Whether you’re looking to add a contemporary twist to an heirloom piece or update a treasured design to reflect your facial features, you’ll be investing with confidence.