From the serene waters of Japan comes one of the most celebrated treasures in the world of jewellery – the Japanese pearl. Known for their lustre, elegance and impeccable craftsmanship, these pearls have long been adored by collectors, designers and wearers alike.
But what exactly makes Japanese pearls so special? In this guide, we’ll take a closer look at their fascinating origins, the different types you’ll find and how to wear and care for them with confidence and style.
What makes a Japanese pearl?
When we speak of Japanese pearls, we’re usually referring to pearls that have been cultivated in Japan – most famously the exquisiteAkoya variety.
Unlikenatural pearls – which occur spontaneously in the wild and are exceptionally rare – all Japanese pearls are cultured. This means they aregrown under carefully monitored conditions with the help of skilled pearl farmers.
Japan played a pioneering role in the cultured pearl industry. In fact, the name Mikimoto is almost synonymous with the modern pearl.Kokichi Mikimoto, a pioneering Japanese entrepreneur, was the first to successfully culture a pearl after 1907.
He acquired the intellectual rights from two Japanese innovators, Mr. Mise and Mr. Nishikawa, who had developed tools to implant a bead into a living Akoya oyster in the early 1900s. This strategic move revolutionized the pearl industry. By applying their groundbreaking techniques, Mikimoto made high-quality pearls more widely accessible to the world – forever transforming pearl jewelry.
Today, Japanese pearl farming is revered for its precision, patience and artistry. Pearls are typically grown in calm bays where the oysters are carefully tended for up to two years. Each pearl harvested is a small miracle – a testament to nature, science and craftsmanship working in perfect harmony.
3 types of Japanese pearls
While the term "Japanese pearls" often brings Akoya pearls to mind, there are actually several varieties worth knowing about. Each has its own character, charm and story to tell.
Akoya pearls
As mentioned, these are the classic Japanese pearls – usually white and rounded, with an unmistakable mirror-like lustre. Typically measuring between 6mm and 9mm,Akoya pearls are renowned for their symmetry and traditional beauty. Colours range from soft white and ivory to pale gold like ourtimeless Akoya pearl necklace to shades with rose or silver overtones.. This makes them wonderfully flattering against all skin tones. Akoya pearls are also found in several shades of pale blue, which is how many of the Akoya pearls are naturally born.
Akoya pearls are the epitome of elegance. Whether worn as simple studs, a delicate pendant or a full strand necklace, they offer timeless sophistication. ThinkAudrey Hepburn inBreakfast at Tiffany’s – when this film was created there were only Akoya pearls or imitation pearls on the market.
Biwa pearls
Named after Lake Biwa in Japan,Biwa pearls are known for their organic shapes and iridescent shimmer. These freshwater pearls were once a staple of Japanese pearl farming but are now far less common due to environmental issues, making them highly collectible.
Unlike their rounder cousins, Biwa pearls often have elongated or baroque shapes. They’re perfect for those who prefer their jewellery to feel a little more unique and artisanal. Their slightly wild nature brings a sculptural, almost contemporary feel to any piece. You can see this on the blackBiwa pearl necklace, which creates interest with each pearl slightly different to the last. They are perfect for those seeking something bold yet refined – a pearl with a story and soul.
Kasumi or Kasumiga pearls
Another lesser-known variety, Kasumi pearls are freshwater pearls cultivated in Lake Kasumigaura, northeast of Tokyo. They are prized for their rich colours – think peach, plum, gold and lavender – along with their naturally textured, often rippled surfaces. Sadly these pearls have become increasingly scarce as lake Kasumigaura has become increasingly polluted.
Each Kasumi pearl is one of a kind, and is almost impossible to find – with a depth of colour and character that makes it feel deeply personal. While they might not have the classic smoothness of Akoya pearls, they more than make up for it with their uniqueness and artistic appeal.
Why choose Japanese pearls?
There’s something unmistakable about Japanese pearls – a quiet grace and precision that reflects the culture they come from. Here’s why they continue to stand out:
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Unrivalled lustre: Japanese pearls, especially Akoya, are known for their incredibly highlustre – that glowing, almost mirror-like sheen that catches the light beautifully.
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Consistency & craftsmanship: Japanese pearl farmers are masters of their craft. Each oyster is nurtured with care, and only the highest-quality pearls are selected for jewellery.
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Elegant tradition: These pearls carry with them a sense of heritage. Wearing them feels like stepping into a long-standing tradition of refinement and beauty.
Whether you’re building a collection or looking for a special piece, Japanese pearls are an investment in artistry, history and timeless style.
How to style Japanese pearls
The beauty of Japanese pearls lies in their versatility. You don’t need a ballgown to wear them (though they do look divine with one). Here are a few ways to make them your own:
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Everyday elegance: A pair ofAkoya studs or a simple pendant like ourgrey freshwater pearl brings effortless polish to any outfit – from jeans and a tee to a tailored blazer.
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Layered luxe: Mix shorter and longer strands of pearls with other necklaces for a modern, layered look. Baroque and Biwa pearls add texture and intrigue.
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Statement moments: Bold, colourful Kasumi pearls or sculptural Biwa pieces are perfect for making a statement. OurBiwa triple-strand necklace is a perfect example. Let them shine by keeping the rest of your look understated.
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Bridal beauty: Japanese pearls remain afavourite for brides – soft, glowing and romantic. They’re a beautiful way to honour tradition while adding a personal touch.
Caring for your pearls
Pearls are organic gems, which means they need a little extra love to stay looking their best. Here are some quick tips:
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Wear them often: Pearls benefit from natural skin oils, which help maintain their lustre by keeping them hydrated.
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Last on, first off: Apply makeup, perfume and hairspray before putting on pearls to avoid damage.
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Store separately: Keep pearls away from harder jewellery to prevent scratches.
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Wipe gently: After wearing, gently wipe your pearls with a soft cloth to remove any residue.
To learn more, read our fullguide to taking care of pearls. With proper care, your Japanese pearls will age beautifully – becoming even more special over time.
Embrace the beauty of Japanese pearls
From the iconic Akoya to the unique and radiant Biwas, Japanese pearls offer a world of beauty waiting to be discovered. Rooted in tradition yet endlessly wearable, they’re the kind of jewellery that never goes out of style – a quiet luxury for those who appreciate the finer things.
Whether you're just starting your pearl journey or adding to a lifelong collection, Japanese pearls are a truly elegant choice. At Coleman Douglas Pearls, we hand-craft designs using the finestAkoya andBiwa pearls at our London studio. Browse our jewellery collection to find your perfect necklace, bracelet, pendant or brooch.
You can alsobook a personal consultationto benefit from over 30 years of experience in choosing pearl jewellery. We’ll help you match pearls to your skin tone, face shape and more to light up your face and enhance your natural beauty.
