Pearls have been afavourite of international rulers across the centuries, featured in the clothing and jewellery designs of monarchs including Cleopatra and Queen Elizabeth II.
ButQueen Elizabeth II wasn’t the only British monarch with a preference for pearls. In fact, it was her namesake Queen Elizabeth I who remains one of history’s most renowned pearl lovers.
Below, we’ll break down her passion for pearls, giving you tips on how to style your own Elizabethan pearls.
A brief history of Elizabethan pearls
Queen Elizabeth I is still celebrated for many reasons. The daughter of the somewhat infamous King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth is remembered for her striking appearance, her reputation as the ‘Virgin Queen’ and the courage she showed in mustering British troops to stave off the Spanish Armada.
Alongside her canny leadership and bold character, Elizabeth I is also remembered for her love of pearls.
Elizabeth favoured pearls for their association with wealth and status, but she also wore themto symbolise her famous chastity. Cynthia, the Ancient Greek goddess of the moon, was a mythological figure known for her virginity and purity. The spherical shape and opalescentlustre of pearls meant they became synonymous with the moon, as well as the fellow goddess of chastity, Diana. By wearing pearls associated with Cynthia and Diana, Elizabeth was deliberately aligning herself with this mythical figure, cementing her virginal reputation.
It's likely that Elizabeth developed her passion for pearls from the Italian Médici court. From the mid 16th to 17th centuries, many of the Médici women were painted in outfits heavily ornamented with pearls, a style that Elizabeth seems to have adopted and emulated.
Elizabeth wore pearls of all varieties. She was particularly known for wearinglong pearl necklaces made of hundreds of pearls, as well as individual pearls sewn onto her clothing. The ‘pearls’ sewn onto her clothing were in fact iridescent glass beads filled with wax which at the time cost 1 penny a piece, equivalent to 1 weeks wages for most people.
So renowned was her love of pearls that theEarl of Leicester bequeathed her ‘a rope of 600 fair white pearls’ in his will. She even established a ‘pearl pendant’ genre in portraiture, some of which remain in the University of Oxford’s collection. Each of the eleven paintings in this style shows the queen wearing a distinguished pendant pearl hanging from her clothing or as part of a jewellery design.
After her death, Anne of Denmark – Queen Consort to the new King James I – borrowed heavily from Elizabeth’s styling, repeatedly wearing pearls to honour the previous monarch’s passion.
Two famous examples of Elizabethan pearls
Armada Portrait
The most iconic example of the ‘pearl pendant’ portraiture is arguablythe Armada Portrait. Now on permanent display at theRoyal Museum of Greenwich, the portrait was commissioned to commemorate the defeat of the Spanish fleet of 1588.
In invoking Cynthia and Diana, the many pearls emphasise her chastity and virginity. One of the largest baroque pearls, topped with a pink bow, is centred at the position of a man’s codpiece. This positioning is hypothesised to deliberately referenceHans Holbein’s famous portrait of Elizabeth’s father, Henry VIII.
Hanover Pearls
Originally given to Catherine Médici by Pope Clement VII,the Hanover Pearls – also known as the Médici Pearls – have a long history.
Catherine Médici gifted this six-strand string of pearls to her daughter-in-law Mary, Queen of Scots. Upon Elizabeth’s death, these pearls passed to Mary’s son James I, and the Hanover Pearls have since passed down generations of British royalty.
However, the Hanover Pearls were not without controversy. According to one story, Elizabeth I confiscated these pearls following Mary’s beheading. Eventually, the Duke of Cumberland – uncle of Queen Victoria – demanded their return. Victoria’s refusal led to a twenty-year court case over the Hanover Pearls’ ownership, ultimately settled in favour of the duke. There is another theory that Elizabeth I acquired these pearls using money from the government’s treasury, hence they were declared officially part of English patrimony. The Hanover Pearls were never returned, however, and Queen Elizabeth II was said to own earrings and a diadem with pearls of Hanover provenance.
Take inspiration from Elizabethan pearls – styling tips and ideas
Take inspiration from Queen Elizabeth I and wear your pearls in homage to one of the UK’s greatest monarchs with our styling tips.
Don’t forget that you can designbespoke pearl jewellery with Coleman Douglas Pearls. If there’s a particular piece of Elizabethan pearl jewellery that you’re inspired by,book a consultation with us. Drawing on over 30 years of experience, we’ll help you create an Elizabethan design to treasure for generations.
Pearl pendants
Elizabeth inspired a whole new genre of pearl pendant portraiture. What better way to honour her love of the gems than by wearing your very ownpearl pendant?
Ourwhite South Sea pearl and diamond accent ‘tsarina’ pendant is fit for a queen, combining an 18-carat white gold chain with a sparkling 0.25-carat diamond. Wear alone or with matchingwhite South Sea pearl and diamond accent ‘tsarina’ earrings.
If white isn’t your colour, choose aTahitian pearl jewellery design instead. The only naturally black pearls, these gems come in tones ranging from peacock green and aubergine to grey and black. Ourblack Tahitian pearl, green tsavorite and diamond pendant would look regal alongside ourTahitian pearl and tourmaline gold ring.
Baroque pearls
Elizabeth especially favouredbaroque pearl jewellery. Irregular in shape and sought after for their distinctive texture, these one-of-a-kind gems add an appealing variation to any outfit.
Wear ourblack-grey Tahitian pearl dawn chorus limited edition brooch withTahitian black pearl earrings as your own Elizabethan-inspired armour.
For a matching set, choose ourblack baroque Tahitian pearl ‘happy’ necklace worn with ourblack Tahitian and garnet ‘twinkling light’ earrings.
Long necklaces
Elizabeth is frequently painted wearing long pearl necklaces comprised of bothsingle strands andmulti strands.
Keep it classic with a design like ourwhite freshwater pearl long necklace, or put a contemporary spin on it with ourwhite keshi pearl and smokey quartz ‘the twist’ necklace.
You could even drape apearl lariat necklace down a backless dress – we’re sure Elizabeth would approve!
Design your own Elizabethan pearls
Book apersonal consultation with us to find a pearl jewellery design fit for royalty. We’ll help you choose a piece that’s expertly matched to you, allowing you to invest with confidence.
